Tuning Question

[jethrobuddy]

Hi people, Hope you can help. I am setting up my bow and have run into a small problem. I am new at this stuff but I like to try and do some of this stuff myself so that I get it through my thick skull. My problem is that at 10 yds, My arrow hits about 2" to the left. I can not move my sight over anymore because it hits my riser. I am a lefty. I went to my local bow shop and the guy used a crntering guage to center my rest. Can I move the rest of of center, or what? If you know of any links to articles, that would help too. I am open to any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

[RodS]

It is hard to tell from what you have given us for info, it would help if we knew what bow you were shooting at what peak weight and draw length as well as what arrows, size, length and point weight. But my first thoughts are arrows are the wrong spine and or fletching contact with the rest.

[jethrobuddy]

OK here we go with the info. I have an ABC Scout with a peak draw weight of 70 lbs, It is set at 70 lbs also. The draw length is at 31" I think. I just put a new module to lengthen the draw length, but it is too long(alot of wrist slap). I am going to try and shorten it one half inch, and give it a try. I have Carbon Xtreme 5080 arrows. The arrows are 30.5 " from the nocking point to where the tip screws in. I phoned Wendal at ABC and he said that they are the same as 6080 arrows now listed on there website. The field points are 100 gr. I have a wiskerbisket rest.

I just had my wife measure an arrow at full draw. From where the string sits in the nock to the center of the arrow rest(center of my riser) is 29 5/8"

[petew]

shoot thru a piece of paper and see what your flight is like.It sounds like you have a rest that is out of tune.Get that in tune and then adjust the sights to suit.
There is a tuning guide on my site that will help you with papertuning.{eastons}
There are plans there too for a paper tuning stand but all that is needed is a cardboard box with a hole cut on both sides to tape paper over.

[scooter]

Hey Jethro...Here's a couple of things that can help you out.

Easton Paper Tuning Guide (http://www.bowzone.ca/modules.php?op=modload&name=Downloads&file=index&req=getit&lid=53)

And here's the bow tuning section of bowzone.ca

http://www.bowzone.ca/index.php?module=StoryOrganizer&func=stories&catid=17&topic=9

Have a read and these articles should help you out.

I agree with Pete...It sounds like a problem with the rest.

[jethrobuddy]

Thanks Guys, I'll get back to you after I try it.

[jethrobuddy]

Well guys I did the paper tuning thing. At first I thought it would never work. I ended up moving my rest back to where it was before I went to the shop and had it centered with the string. The groups were a bit oversize for a while with the 100 gr field points. I switched to 125 gr field points and they tightned right up. The groups were shot at 15 yards. Why would a heavier tip make the difference? With moving the rest off of center, doesn't that make the arrow come out of the bow sideways, so to speak? Or does that get taken up with the flex of the arrow?

Thanks for the advice on straitening out my problem.

[petew]

If heavier points helped then it seems the shaft is a bit on the stiff side for the 100 gr point on your setup.Now try the papertuning at 15/20 yards & see if you still get good tears.If not retune to get them shooting bulletholes.
Pete

[jethrobuddy]

When I was shooting last nite I was still shooting through my paper tuning box. The holes were like a bullet hole with three tears sp[aced evenly around it everytime. Does this mean I am good to go? Do I have to shoot through paper at every distance?

Here is a couple more questions:

If there are no spray insulation companies around for 300 miles, what can a guy use for a portable target backstop?

With these carbon arrows, Just scuffing up the shaft with a scotchbright pad (where the fletching goes) is enough to attach the duravanes to the shaft with the proper adhesive for carbon arrows?

You guys here are a wealth of knowledge for the beginner bowhunter. Thanks for being there. The average guy would have a hell of a time trying to get going in this sport without a place to turn to like this. Keep up the great sevice.

[petew]

You should be OK to go with the bow shooting like this, however I like to set up again at 15-20yards to make sure that the arrow is flying good at hunting ranges.
The scotch brite pad should be enough to give a good contact surface.Wipe the area with acetone or laquer thinner after the roughing to clean it before applying the vanes.
Duravanes stick well with any of the instant glues.loctite clear , CAE,etc.
I use vynal film that I get from sign shops to crest the arrows with and find that the bond is better than by putting the vanes on the bare shaft.

If you can't find the sign material to make crests with check out Bowmans Archery, he has a good suply and is quite cheap too for ready made crest wraps. type this clik.to/bowmanbob to go to his home page.If you don't see it there just ask him for prices.

For target material you can fill a bag/sac with old rags, or plastic bags and plastic poly sheeting material.

Concrete suply places sell ethafoam sheets that are used under concrete pours also.

Another option is to buy a target,sometines you can get a good deal on 3D deer targets at wally world.


Just now you probably think you are in the shade.Right? wrong.
Now that you have the field points shooting well, try a broadhead.
If it shoots to somewhere else than the fieldpoint you need to tune the rest to bring the field point and broadhead together.When both fieldpoints and broadheads are together then try a diferent braodhead, [if you have more than 1 type]. You can get a bow tuned to shoot almost every broadhead of the same weight together, it just takes a bit of time.Move the rest in 1 direction only untill the bow is shooting BH/FP together.

So this means that a paper tuned bow is just a good place to start from.!!
LOL
Now just to torment yourself do a papertune shot to see how it looks now.
The result is not important,don't change anything,just see for yourself.
Also shoot thru the paper at 20Yds now and see what it looks like.
Remember that if the Bow shoots the Broadhead and the fieldpoint to the same place at 20+yards you have a bow that is tuned to hunt with.Don't change it.
Have fun shooting.

[jethrobuddy]

Before I read the post just before this one, I forgot to say that when I was shooting those 125gr. field tips, I had moved back to 15 yards and I was shooting through my paper tuning set-up.. Then my question was if I am good to go. I kind of left out the moving back part. OOPS!